The Beauty of Mosaic Tile Backsplash

A mosaic tile backsplash for the kitchen can make your kitchen look dramatic. Besides, haven’t you heard, mosaics are in this season?

The beauty of a mosaic tile backsplash is that mosaic can be made to look elegant, subtle, dramatic or wild. So, you can create just about any effect you want. Mosaics are multicolored, so they are easy to combine with your existing room décor.

A mosaic tile backsplash can be made from any material that you choose – glass, vinyl or marble. It can make use of tiles of different sizes and colors of tiles too. Remember this is your baby. Anything you choose to do is right! Only, be careful that you have the design right before it gets stuck to the wall – permanently! So, experiment with colors, shapes and sizes. Coordinate the colors and the textures with the rest of the kitchen. If you want to experiment with designs or mix and match colors, it is better to get the design down on a template before you are ready to work on the wall.

One of the best ways to go about creating a mosaic tile backsplash is to start with paper and pencil. Measure your workspace accurately from the top of the counter to the bottom of the cupboards. Don’t forget to include small areas that you may need to work around. If you are new to this, it is a good idea to cut out paper templates of the tiles you plan to use. Arrange the paper templates in a single square foot area. Create a pattern on the workspace by trying out different colors, sizes and shapes. This will give you a good visual idea of how the mosaic tile backsplash will shape up once you are through.

If you are confident of doing it yourself, you may even cut out tiles of different colors so they match your overall design. To create tiles of different sizes, simply use a tile nipper and cut the tiles to whatever size or shape you need.

Once the design and the tiles are ready, it is time to get your hands dirty – literally. Spread a thick coat of mastik on the workspace and start attaching your tiles one by one. Remove excess mastic with a putty knife. When you are placing the tiles, your template will be of immense help because you know exactly which tile goes where. Once the design is on the wall, allow the mosaic tile backsplash to set completely.

Remember that while you are laying the mosaic, you have to put spacers in place so you can have even grout lines in between the tiles. When you are ready to apply the grout, clean the tile surface with a wet sponge and start applying grout with a trowel. Excess grout must be removed with sponge and water before it sets. Allow the grout to set completely.

A mosaic tile backsplash takes time to come alive under your hands. But, once it’s done, it can give you years and years of pleasure.

This Just In!

We just added new colors to our Granite, Marble and Limestone tile collections!



Newly added Marble colors include Crema Cappuccino, Temple Grey and Beige Botticino. In the Granite section, you will now find Bianco Catalina (for just $2.99 a Square Foot!), Autumn Harmony and Kashmir White. We also added Jura Beige, Lagos Blue and Sea Grass to our Limestone.

These are just a few of our new colors. Any color you choose is sure to look great in your home!

Stop by today and check them out!

(Pictured: Crema Cappuccino Marble Tile)

Glass Tile

I think some of the coolest products we offer are our glass tile products. Just a few simple glass accent tiles can give your space a unique look that seperates your design from the more generic designs that have flooded the industry. I like these tiles because they are so different in comparison to anything else we offer. I'm amazed at how great they look once they have been installed in any number of places throughout a home.

These tiles can be used just about anywhere, but the more traditional uses include kitchens and bathrooms. They are great for backsplashes because they are very easy to clean and maintain and offer an awesome decorative touch to your overall design concept. Glass tiles are also used in spas. To me, glass tile offers a sophisticated, yet relaxed vibe that is perfect for the master bathroom or spa environment.

If an entire wall of glass tile is too much for your budget or style, I suggest that you use glass tiles are a accent piece to compliment a more neutral tile used on the rest of the workspace. Tumbled travertine is a great compliment to our glass tile line and looks great with bold accent colors that glass tiles provide!

Another great thing about these tiles is they come in so many colors! We've got everything from the bold and bright contemporary to deep and rich traditional colors. There are so many combinations you can come up with its almost overwhelming... But that's why we're here, so don't hesitate to call us for help designing your project. Make sure you stop by our website and pick out your favorite blend, liner or subway tiles today!

It's Time to Think About the Outdoors!

Spring has finally made it to Kansas City! Hopefully wherever you are, you’re also enjoying the warm, sunny days. It’s the time of year to be thinking about baseball games, relaxing outdoors, ice cold drinks and barbeques with your friends and family. It’s also a great time of year to begin your outdoor projects!

With our wide range of landscaping products, there are countless projects you can start! For example, our pavers are ideal products for walkways, steps, balconies, patios, pool areas and even driveways. Pavers are available in sandstone, slate, granite, travertine, basalt, quartzite and limestone, and they come in a variety of sizes, so you are sure to find one (or more) to fit your needs!

And while you’re fixing up your sidewalk and patio areas, don’t forget about our SunTouch ProMelt products. These amazing products are installed beneath the surface of your patio or sidewalk and melt the snow away. I know, I know, it’s spring! Why am I talking about snow?

We offer the SunTouch ProMelt products in both mats and cables, so you can choose what's best for you! Also, be sure to check out our ProMelt controls and accessories. The SunTouch ProMelt products will benefit both you and your guests. There will be less shoveling for you (who doesn't hate shoveling?) and less slipping for your guests. Install these products now, and next winter you will be thanking yourself for thinking ahead!

So get out there and enjoy all the seasons, but don’t forget the sunscreen!

Jazz Up Your Kitchen With Backsplash Glass Tile

Glass, used anywhere in the home, can make the interior look elegant, stylized and sophisticated. From the point of view of usability too, glass is a good choice because unlike ceramic and other materials, glass is not porous. So, glass surfaces are a rare combination of beauty and usability.

Several factors work in favor of a backsplash glass tile:

• Since it does not absorb moisture or oil and is easy to clean, glass can drastically cut cleaning time and maintenance costs
• Glass tiles will not attract mildew or mold. Thus, they are more hygienic
• Glass reflects light. This property lights up the area where glass tile is used, making it look brighter and roomier
• A wide range of colors and combinations gives you a wealth of choices to select from

Backsplash glass tile can be created in a variety of colors, designs and textures. There is great versatility in glass tile backsplash and the effect you achieve is limited only by your imagination. Deciding on the effect you want to create is the first step. If you have the expertise, you may even consider etching a design on to the glass. However, if you are a novice, it is recommended that you stick to mixing and matching tiles in case you want some variation. If you do decide to mix and match, you might want to try some interesting combinations of glass tiles with marbles or stone. Plan it well and you can create a trendy, fun kitchen.

Glass tile mosaic backgrounds are a great way to make your kitchen look stylish. A quick look at websites will open the doors of your imagination. Hundreds of colors, designs and textures can be combined to create whatever design you wish.

Putting up a backsplash glass tile is not a difficult task, but it does take time. So, it is a job you might want to take up over the weekend.

Set the tiles using white, clear thin-set. Use non-porous grout. Epoxy is favored over cement, because cement will need to be sealed periodically.

Once you are ready to start installation, the first step is to get rid of the existing backsplash tiles, if any. Break the tiles and pry them out smoothly. Smooth the wall surface using drywall. Then, you can install the new backsplash glass tile. Remember to wipe away excess grout with a rag dipped in a mixture of vinegar and water. The tiles will set overnight and be completely dry in 24 hours.

If you want to design a new kitchen, it is better to wait until everything else is in place before you choose the glass tile for the backsplash. Many people make the mistake of designing the kitchen around the backsplash. Ideally, your design process should be the other way round. If you want to redesign an existing kitchen, your choice is naturally limited to colors, styles and textures that compliment your existing kitchen. Even so, you will have a hard time picking out just the right shade and design from so many varieties.

Landscaping Products

We've had a great deal of success providing the best tile & stone products available to home owners, designers & builders across the country for years now. All of this success was limited in a way because we only were able to provide materials for the inside of a home. I'm happy to announce that due to customer demand and our internal desire to be as much of a One Stop Shop as possible we now have an excellent line of pavers & other landscaping products!

Patios, pools, outdoor fireplaces & kitchens, exterior walls & columns and more are now projects that can be completed with products from our Landscape & Paver product line.

What project are you most interested in? My wife and I will be installing a slate paver patio later this summer and I can't wait to see how it turns out! We have also considered using the ledger colums as a facade for our deck posts, something that could really make our landscaping project stand out.

I'm an outdoors kind of guy anyway, so it's exciting to be able to talk with customers about their landscaping designs and installation methods with these products. I watch a lot of the DIY Network's landscaping shows and that helped us define what products we decided to offer in our landscape & paver line. I've seen some amazing transformations to the curb appeal of a home by using the quality materials that we now offer. Everyone is interested in increasing their homes value and aside from kitchen & bathroom projects, exterior landscaping projects continually show the highest rate of return on your investment when your considering putting your home up for sale.

Enjoy the new additions to our product line and let me know if there are any different exterior landscaping products you'd like to see added to our catalog.

New Eco Friendly Flooring Products

As of today April 9th, 2009 360flooring.com is in the process of adding many Eco Friendly Flooring products. Just this week we have added an entire reclaimed hardwood flooring line in solid 3/4" hardwood and engineered. The species to name are Reclaimed oak, chestnut and heartpine. If you are not familiar with the reclaimed material the wood is recylced from old barns and beams from old structures found in our nation and around the world. Each structure is torn down and transported to Milling factories that recycle the wood to make various products to reuse in commercial and residential projects. Another product line that we will be launching this month is our Bamboo, Palmboo & Mulberry wood flooring line. These 3 products are the most eco friendly green products on the market today in the hardwood flooring industry. Again we will have solid and engineered available in all 3 species in a variety of colors. These new lines of green products will compliment our natural stones very nicely giving our customers more of a one stop shop feature for all of their flooring needs.

Tumbled Travertine Tile

Tumbled travertine is one of our most desired tile products. Clients love the natural look and feel of our tumbled travertine. The pitted, porous nature of tumbled travertine offers a unique richness that ceramics and porcelains just can not compete with. Along with our amazing array of sizes, borders, chair rails and decoratives we offer larger sizes of 16x16 and 12x12 in every color.

No other product in our line is used more for kitchen backsplashes than our tumbled travertine. We commonly recommend 4x4's on diagonal, 2x4 & 3x6 as subway tiles and some unique designs that include our 1x12 and .5x12 chair rails to create a more custom design. Bathrooms are another place where our tumbled travertine gets used again and again. Yes, it presents a little more maintenance up front by requiring you to seal the tile but overall lives very well in a bathroom setting. You can not beat the natural stone look and feel that you get when tumbled travertine is used throughout an entire room.

Tumbled travertine tile is commonly installed as a backsplash for granite countertops. The colors of our tumbled travertine tiles are meant to compliment your granite coutertop. Noce will show brown tones which can be darkened by using a natural stone color enhancer. Cashmere is a creamy ivory color with hints of beige throughout. Sienna is that tuscan gold color that will really bring a pop of color to any project. Antique Beige offers a less pitted texture and contains warm ivory undertones with beige, peach and pink veining. By using a nice neutral grout color to finish the project we consider tumbled travertine to be among the best tile options for a kitchen backsplash.

Slate Tile

Slate tile is a beautiful, durable, slip resistant natural stone tile that offers character and variety to any indoor or outdoor tile application. Slate is a very attractive tile option that offers a rich feel to rustic, comtemporary and traditional design schemes. The warm earth tones present in slate make it the perfect compliment to reflect the natural landscape it is derived from.

Common uses for slate tile include backsplashes, fireplaces, bathroom tile, shower tile, exterior patio and pool surround projects, accent walls and more. Not only does our slate tile offer more color and texture than other tiles like porcelain or travertine, but our ability to offer you an excellent variety of sizes for each color makes it simple to create a custom design without having to worry about mixing and matching colors from different vendors. The exterior and flagstone options our slate tile line provides offers you the opportunity to create breath taking patio, porch and other exterior projects that will set your home apart from your neighbors.

We offer a number of color within our slate tile line, of which we are continually adding to based on your request. Indian Autumn and African Gold have become very popular colors this year and our California Gold and Buff slates continue to be the best selling colors, year after year. The warm red and violet tones of Multicolor slate make it a unique and inviting option. The unique color and texture of our quartz or quartzite slate is quickly becoming a staple product for some of our most prominent custom home builders.

NEW PRODUCT LINES!

We have recently added a number of awesome product lines to our website! I'm proud to say that your demand for more decorative tile options is being met, regardless of your projects size. We've added glass tile, pebble tile and stainless steel tiles in a variety of sizes & colors!

These tiles offer perfect blend of natural materials and color tones with the modern elegance that customers love in their kitchen & bathroom projects. Take a look at the entire line at www.360flooring.com and let me know what you think.

Check out these pictures below of some awesome projects that feature our new tile lines:







As with all of our products, there is discounted pricing options available for large orders...

Thanks & enjoy!
--
Ryan LeCluyse
360FLOORING.COM
1-866-592-8169 x 2
ryan@360flooring.com

Market Update

I get this report from Hanley Wood once a month and I thought the relevance of the information they present may be something a number of you can find useful...

Enjoy

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A New Year with the Same Problems
While no one expects 2009 to be a stellar year for the housing market or broader economy, it will be critical in terms of whether the economic chaos can finally begin to stabilize. The incoming President’s economic stimulus plan which many had hoped would be ready by inauguration time has run into increased scrutiny and opposition. The President-elect has recently pushed for the release of the remaining $350 billion in TARP funds to be used differently than the first half in order to aide small businesses and housing. These early initiatives will set the tone for the remainder of what will be a crucial year if the economy is to turn around.

Trouble in financials have resurfaced with many banks scrambling to raise capital and seeking additional TARP funds to support their capital base as another round of significant write-offs are expected in the coming quarter. Financial sector woes and falling crude prices due to the economic slowdown have sent stocks spiraling down in the first couple weeks of the year. As of January 15th, the S&P 500 index has lost 6.7% since the end of last year while crude prices for February delivery fell to $35.40/barrel.

It is a positive sign that mortgage rates have declined to their lowest levels in decades, falling for the 11th straight week last week to an average rate of 4.96%. That is the lowest rate on record since Freddie Mac started tracking rates in its survey in 1971. Lower rates seem to have initially sparked some buying activity. Although purchase mortgage applications declined this past week, they had posted weekly increases in three out of the past four weeks according to the Mortgage Bankers Association’s weekly survey. The Federal Reserve has also started its plan to buy back mortgage-backed securities from Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, and Ginnie Mae which will hopefully lower mortgage rates and loosen up credit markets. As of last Thursday, the Federal Bank of New York announced that it had purchased $10.2 billion mortgage-backed securities from the former government-sponsored enterprises.

The Economy
Recently released data from the end of last year show the economy in dire straits as the consumer continues to struggle and jobs are being lost at record levels. The Labor Department reported that the U.S. economy shed 524,000 jobs in December to bring the annual total to nearly 2.6 million jobs lost in 2008. The annual drop in payrolls last year was the worst since 1945 when World War II ended. The unemployment rate rose to a 16-year high of 7.2% while the loss of seasonal jobs and further deterioration in the employment market will likely push that figure even higher in January. Currently, non-seasonally adjusted total non-farm employment shows a figure of 136,119,000, a loss of 2.03% from December 2007.

Job losses and concerns about the economy continued to hit retail sales in December. National retail sales figures fell by a seasonally-adjusted 2.7% from November which is the sixth straight month that retail sales figures have declined. This is the longest streak of monthly declines for retail sales on record. Conditions in the previous two months were also worse than expected as revisions for October and November data showed that retail sales fell 3.4% and 2.1%, respectively, in those months.

Housing Market
In the week ending January 9th, the MBA’s seasonally-adjusted Purchase Index declined to 295.8 from 344.2 in the previous week. This is the first weekly decline for purchase applications in the past month as lower rates were not able to keep purchase activity up. The latest figure reflects a 14.06 percent decline from last week and a 35.86% drop from the same period last year. National average mortgage rates declined to 4.96% in the latest Primary Mortgage Market Survey released weekly by Freddie Mac on January 15th. This is the eleventh straight week that mortgage rates have declined. This is the first time rates have recorded an average rate of under 5 percent while reaching their lowest levels on record since Freddie Mac started the survey in 1971.

Conditions in the housing market continued to deteriorate in November as rising unemployment and the weakening economy has kept homebuyers on the sidelines. Both new and existing home sales posted drops in November. New home sales in November declined 2.9% to a seasonally-adjusted annual pace of 407,000 units. Seasonally-adjusted annualized new home sales are at their lowest levels since January 1991. Sales for the previous three months were also revised lower by 35,000 units. However, the number of new homes for sale continued to decline as builders continue to scale back production. Seasonally-adjusted inventory of new homes declined for the 19th straight month to 374,000 units. In November, median new home prices increased to $220,400 from a downwardly revised October figure of $214,600. Median new home prices have now recorded seven straight months of year-over-year declines. Competition from the existing home market and the flood of foreclosures along with slower demand due to the weak economy may continue to pressure the new homes market going into next year.

Annualized sales of total existing homes in November dropped 8.6% from October levels to 4.490 million units. Sales of existing homes are down 10.6% from the 5.020 million units in November 2007. The seasonally-adjusted annual rate of existing home sales is at its lowest levels since November 1997. Median existing home prices in November declined to $181,300 which is the lowest it has been since February 2004 and the fifth straight month that median existing home prices have recorded a decline. In November, the number of existing homes on the market increased for the first time in four months. Inventory increased a slight 0.1% to a preliminary 4.203 million units from a revised 4.198 million units in October. Lower rates and falling prices have pushed the existing home affordability ratio in November to 59.0% which is the highest it has been since we started tracking the field in January 1990.

For market-level data and analysis please visit our website at http://newsletters.cmail3.com/t/y/l/dtxtu/thejhmu/i. For more detailed information on the indicators discussed in this key indicator alert, please visit the following links:

Employment Growth : (2,815,000) F
Unemployment Rate : 7.2% C-
Real GDP Growth : (0.5%) F
Consumer Confidence: 38.0 F
Purchase Mortgage Applications: 295.8 F
Mortgage Rates : 4.96% A+
Median Price Existing Home : $181,300 F
Existing Home Sales: 4,490,000 D-
Existing Home Inventory : 4,203,000 F
Existing Home Affordability : 59.0% A
Median Price New Home : $220,400 F
New Home Sales: 407,000 F
New Home Inventory : 372,000 F
New Home Affordability Ratio : 50.7% A-

Source: Hanley Wood Market Intelligence - Key Indicator Alert - Jan. 15, 2009

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Thoughts on this report? Would you like me to post this every month?

Ryan LeCluyse
360Flooring.com
1-866-592-8169 ext. 2
ryan@360flooring.com

Backsplash Designs

I've had more inquiries about backsplash design than any other project over the last couple of weeks, so I'd like to share some design hints that I've come up with that may help you get that project wrapped up...

First off, a lot of people don't realize how easy it is to make a backsplash really stand out in your kitchen design. The big budget items like granite countertops and custom cabinets can bleed a budget dry and the resulting backsplash design and materials seem to be a common element that has to suffer. Why is that..? If there was ever a tile project that any DIY minded homeowner should take the kitchen backsplash could really be a chance to show your stuff.

Some hints...

1. Use a natural stone. From the initial WOW factor to the future resell factor - travertine, slate, marble, granite and other natural stones offer more than any porcelain ever will in my opinion. There are so many colors and sizes to work with the possibilities are limitless. A fundamental step for using natural stone on a backsplash is to make sure you use the right sealer. The sealer/enhancer I always recommend in Stone Tech Enhancer Pro (STEP for short). One quart goes a long way and really draws a ton of color out of the body of the stone your using while it also offers maximum protection from cooking accidents and the everyday spills and splashes that happen.

2. Move your outlets down. Every time I recommend this to a builder, designers or DIY they all have that "light bulb" moment and a resounding "Ohhh!" is voiced. Why it was ever common practice for outlets to be placed in the middle of a backsplas is beyond me, but for all practical & deisgn reasons I suggest you move them down...

Here's an example of what I'm talking about:
A couple of things that I love about this concept.

A. Every outlet on the planet will vertically or horizontally fit within the first row of tile on your backsplash so long as you use either 6x6 tile (outlet is vertical) or 4x4 tile (outlet is horzontal).

B. Depending on whether you choose to align your outlets vertically or horizontally you have anywhere from 12" to 14" of uninterupted workspace to add your own style to your backsplash by simply moving the outlets down and having the first row work as a buffer between your countertops and the rest of your backsplash.

The example above shows are very simple design using 6x6 Tumbled Noce Travertine and 2x4 California Gold Slate, but the design works and if you take a look at the video below you'll probably agree that it really offers a nice flow to that kitchen and certainly draws your eye along the entire stretch of the wall.



3. Sheets of mosaic material offer more bang for your buck. Glass tile is a really popular choice for backsplash designs these days. It should be...it looks great! My recommendation to anyone that is wanting the "bling" of glass tile in their design is to buy 12x12 sheets of the material and use a design that allows you to either cut 2"-4" strips OR smaller 2x2 - 6x6 sections out of the sheet. By doing this the higher cost for the decorative material goes a lot further.
A 12x12 sheet that is cut into 4"x12"strips will cover 3 linear feet with every 1 sqft of material. Likewise a 12x12 sheet that is cut into 4"x4" sections will give you 9 different accent pieces to work with on your design for every 1 sqft of material. This tip can make it easier to use the higher end materials you're in love with and add a dramatic pop of character to your design without breaking the bank...

Well, hopefully there is something that you can take from this and if you have any questions about other simple design ideas for a project that's giving you some trouble - don't hesitate to shoot me an email or give me a call...

If you have any little tweaks you commonly use in the design of your projects, but others may not have had the chance to use... let us know and share the wealth with everyone!

Thanks,
--
Ryan LeCluyse
360Flooring.com
1-866-592-8169 ext. 2
ryanL@360flooring.com

Happy Holidays!

Well, 2008 is coming to a close and we're happy to say that we've learned a lot from this turbulent year throughout our economy. We have had the privlege to see many of our clients and vendors drive through the tough times with vigor and resolve for what's ahead in 2009 and beyond. We have also had to watch a number of excellent clients, vendors, builders and designers run into a wall financially that they simply could not climb. Our thoughts go out to all of those who have witnessed the worst of this economic downturn. 

As we move into 2009 we'd like to welcome more information from YOU our valued clients from every sector of the residential and commercial construction industry. Our business has been running on solid ground for over 54 years now, largely because our clients know that if there is a concern or opinion about how we can better service their needs they have a platform to voice it through a simple phone call, email or customer review of a particular product. Along with an enormous increase to our product line in 2009, we also plan to get back to basics of communication and invite EVERY client - large or small - to let us know how we can do it better...

We truly wish for nothing but the best for you and your family throughout the Holiday season and look forward to hearing from you regarding every facet of your business that we can help streamline through our website and other various services. 

Thank you and Merry Christmas!

Ryan LeCluyse
360Flooring.com
Direct: 816-591-6122
Toll Free: 1-866-592-8169 ext. 2
Email: ryanL@360flooring.com
Skype: ryan_lecluyse

Acrylic vs. Fiberglass - Gel Coat Bath Tubs

ACRYLIC vs. FIBERGLASS

All Carver bath tubs are made with 100% Acrylic materials and reinforced with fiberglass.

Acrylic is a sheet of material that is heated and vacuum-formed over a mold, creating a continuous waterproof membrane. It is then reinforced with fiberglass for added stability and insulation value. Acrylic is non-porous by nature, warm to the touch and retains its gloss finish better than any other material. Acrylic is well recognized for its ability to withstand constant use and cleaning. It is usually recommended that you avoid harsh or abrasive cleaners since acrylic is easily scratched.

Gelcoat fiberglass is a colored polyester resin sprayed onto a mold then reinforced with fine glass particles. Being more porous and brittle than acrylic, the gelcoat/fiberglass surface has a greater tendency to dull and discolor over time. Some other drawbacks to using fiberglass are the fact that they can flex or break if they are not adequately supported and they show scratches over time that cannot be repaired.

Let’s compare fiberglass to acrylic on some very specific characteristics –

Acrylic	Fiberglass
Non-Porous - Bacteria Resistant	Porous - Subject to Bacteria & Mildew
Excellent repairability	Good repairability
Color fast- Excellent	Color fast-Fair
Useful life- 30+ yrs.	Useful life- 1-5 yrs.
Initial cost- Moderate	Initial cost- Low
Strength- Strong	Strength- Fragile
Surface- Semi Gloss	Surface- Matte
Thickness- .60-.125	Thickness- .008-.02
Cleanability- Excellent	Cleanability- Poor
Styles- Wide Variety	Styles- Moderate Variety
Colors- Full Body, Never Fade	Colors-  Dye Based, Fade Over Time
Value- High	Value- Fair

The big plus with acrylic is that it is solid surface, meaning it has a very high filler content and does not have a gel coat. If you have Corian or similar countertops in your home, then you know what solid surface material is. No mildew, mold or bacteria can penetrate because it is non-porous.  Acrylic; being a solid surface, is easier to clean, has a glossy finish and will last for many years. It will not fade over time as the color is all the way through the material, not just on the surface. Whereas, with gel coat fiberglass the gel coat rubs off and then the pores/fibers of the fiberglass are exposed.  Once the pores and fibers are exposed they can harbor bacteria, mold and mildew and grime and soap scum get imbedded into the surface which begins the breaking down of the product. Using a gel-coat is like having a paint sprayed onto the fiberglass to “seal” it.  It wears off over time which is why it fades and wears and becomes even harder to keep clean.

While fiberglass costs less, it will never last longer or as long as acrylic therefore in the long run it is probably well worth the added expense to get a walk in tub made with a surface material that is more durable and that will last for many years.

How To Seal Slate Tile

Step 1

Choose a finish for your sealant. Pick between a glossy finish or a matte seal. Pick either a penetrating sealant that will create a stronger seal or a topical one that coats only the surface. Choose a water-based sealant if you are worried about the level of toxic fumes.

Step 2

Purchase the tile sealant from a home improvement or hardware store.

Step 3

Allow the mortar to dry before grouting the slate tile. Add your chosen sealant into the grout mixture for extra water resistance.

Step 4

Allow the grouted tile 1 week to dry. Clean the tile a few times to ensure that any remnants from the grout are washed away and will not affect the texture of the tile.

Step 5

Allow the tile to dry thoroughly after it has been washed.

Step 6

Follow the grain of the tile when applying the sealant. Make sure to apply it in an even coat, with no streaking or puddles left behind. Ventilate the area as much as possible, since most sealers give off toxic fumes.

Step 7

Allow the tile sealant to dry on the slate for about 2 hours. Apply a second coat of sealant and allow it 2 hours to dry before walking on the tile or putting furniture on it.

Depend on a Trend..?

The residential construction industry is constantly changing, and contractors who want to last need to do their part to stay ahead of and help define the markets trends.  The economic concerns we all face these days has spot lighted the decline in our housing market on the whole.  Our company personally has seen and heard some of the depressing doses of reality the economy has fed us, from builders that can't afford the interest on their spec homes due to market stagnation to manufactures and suppliers that are having to close doors and cut jobs just to stay afloat.  

There are however some very obvious trends in the housing market that builders, if they are not already, should be focused on in order to drive through the markets downturn and come out stronger than ever on the other side.

Going Green

The impact we all have on the environment is a shared responsibility that simply can't go without regard any longer.  We have found a way to dig ourselves into selfless profits with no respect for the impact it has on the environment and generations to come.  Over 70% of all new construction projects (residential & commercial) in the United States will implement higher standards for energy efficient construction methods and designs by the end of 2009.  More than a half billion square feet of U.S. commercial space has been certified as “green” by the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) rating system, according to the U.S. Green Building Council.  

Regardless of the scope of your upcoming projects, expect environmentally sound building methods, design & materials to become the benchmark.

Boomer Time

The first portion of the Baby Boomer generation is quickly approaching 65 years of age and the builders and contractors that jump on board (if they haven't already) could potentially redefine retirement as we know it by recognizing the scope of this generations wealth, knowledge and desire to retire.  Within this generation resides over 76 million persons, of which over 73% will consider themselves 'retired' within the next 10 years.

Developers and contractors that are catering to older adults are offering a comfortable and active lifestyle that revolves around leisure events, hobbies, exercise and fine dining.  The demand from the Boomers for high end appliances, finishes like granite and hardwood floors, energy efficient components and building materials and larger open floor plan designs have helped guide these developments to offer larger homes with provided maintenance and any number of walkable amenities.  

How popular are these developments? Of boomers ages 51 to 60 recently surveyed by the National Association of Realtors, 47 percent said they “definitely or likely would consider moving to an active-adult community.”  My own mother in-law, 63, just moved into her second retirement community in 5 years last winter.

If your company has materials, services or the opportunity to approach and attract developments that cater toward the Baby Boomer generation NOW is the time to get to the drawing board and find out how you can help 76 million people live a little better with your version of things.

Stay Ahead of the Curve

The moral of the story is that even though we are down throughout the residential housing market, there are still areas of opportunity that if approached in the right way could lead to one of the strongest recoveries any industry has ever seen.  Think to yourself, what will happen to my business model when Green methods & materials become the benchmark for every project on the next 5-7 years..?  How can I attract developers and future residents of the Baby Boomer retirement communities to work with my company..?  

We are at a fundamental change in cycles within the housing industry.  The days of fly-by-night builders and developers who have no foundation or expertise are coming to an end.  The days of growth for those that recognize the difficulties ahead and see the avenues of promise before them are upon us.  I'm happy to say that regarding both trends I discussed above NO ONE is too far behind...  

WHEN TO BEGIN FINISHING HARDWOOD FLOORING

A summary of information regarding the process of finishing hardwood floors.  When should you do it?  What tips and tricks are there?  These questions and much more are answered here!

WHEN TO BEGIN THE FINISHING PROCESS

Since a near-occupied environment was established prior to installation, it is recommended that unfinished flooring be allowed to acclimate 1 to 3 weeks before proceeding with sanding and finishing operations. This acclimation allows the flooring to react and move as the environment dictates so that slight cracks, slightly raised edges, etc., can be sanded, filled, and finished to give the best appearance. Longer periods of exposure to job site abuse and moisture can result in future problems.

After finishing is completed, temperature and humidity should continue to be maintained at near occupancy levels.

NEW FLOORS 
Applying the finish to the hardwood floor should be one of the last jobs of any construction project. This prevents the traffic of workmen from marring the finish. Wall coverings should be in place and painting completed except for a final coat on the base molding.

OLD FLOORS
Remove all furniture, rugs, and draperies from the room. If you're planning on wall repair, painting or applying wall covering, do that work before you refinish the floor so paint or paste will not drip on the new floor.

SANDING EQUIPMENT NEEDED
A drum or belt wood floor sanding machine, an edger or spinner, appropriate sanding paper or belts and edger discs, in COARSE, MEDIUM and FINE grits.

NOTE: The drum or belt sanding machine that has a separate lever for raising and lowering the sanding drum is preferred. The lever provides additional control during the sanding process. Always wear ear protection.

A floor polisher 15" to 17" diameter, 200 rpm or less, with a sanding disc attachment and sanding discs or sanding screens in fine grit, also white or brown buffing pads.

Hand tools and miscellaneous equipment: broom, vacuum, hammer, 6d to 8d case nails, nail set, nail puller, long handled paint scraper, hand sanding block and sandpaper, 2"- 3" putty knife and prepared wood filler, oscillating electric sander - if available. For repairing boards: circular saw, 1/2"-1" chisel, pry bar, hand saw, block plane, wood glue, drill, utility knife, replacement flooring.

HOW TO INSTALL PLANK HARDWOOD FLOORING

Detailed information concerning the installation of plank hardwood flooring. This guide will tell you everything you need to know about the proper techniques involved in installing hardwood floors professionally. 

NOTE: With wide plank over 4" extra care is necessary for good performance since the units move more with changing conditions. Proper acclimation before and after installation is critical. After acclimation and before installation, sealing the back surface may help prevent some cupping normally associated with wider widths.

This flooring is normally made in 3" to 8" widths and may have countersunk holes for securing planks with wood screws. These holes are then filled with wood plugs. 

Random width Plank is installed in the same manner as strip flooring, alternating courses by widths. Start with widest boards, then the next width, etc., and repeat the pattern. Manufacturers' instructions for fastening the flooring vary and should be followed. 

The general practice is to blind nail through the tongue as with conventional strip flooring. Then countersink one or more flat head screws, No. 7 - No. 9 phillips head or dry wall screws at each end of each plank and at intervals along the plank to hold it securely. Cover the screws with wood plugs glued into the holes. Take care not to use too many screws which, with the plugs in place, will tend to give the flooring a "polka-dot" appearance. 

Be sure the screws are the right length. Use 1" if the flooring is laid over 3/4" plywood on a slab. Use 1" to 1 1/4" in wood joist construction or over screeds. Some manufacturers recommend face nailing in addition to other fastenings. 

Another practice sometimes recommended is to leave a slight expansion crack, about the thickness of a putty knife, between planks. Consult manufacturer's installation instructions for details. 


LAYING A NEW STRIP FLOOR OVER AN OLD FLOOR
The existing wood floor can serve as a subfloor. Drive down any raised nails, re-nail loose boards and replace any warped boards that can't be made level. Sweep and clean the floor well, but don't use water. 

Remove thresholds to allow the new flooring to run flush through doorways, remove doors and baseboards. Lay asphalt felt or building paper over the old floor. 

Do not install the new floor to the old floor in the same direction. Install at a right angle or on a diagonal. If the preferred direction is in the same direction as the old floor, overlay the old floor with 3/8" to 1/2" plywood. 

PARQUET, BLOCK, HERRINGBONE AND SIMILAR FLOORING
The styles and types of block and parquet flooring as well as the recommended procedures for application vary somewhat among the different manufacturers. Detailed installation instructions are usually provided with the flooring or are available from the manufacturer or distributor. 

This section applies only to 3/4" tongue-and-groove parquet flooring where tongues and grooves are engaged. 

DOES NOT APPLY TO SLAT-TYPE OR FINGERBLOCK PARQUET.
Lay both blocks and the individual pieces of parquetry in mastic over a double layered wood subfloor or a concrete slab with a moisture retarder. 

Use a cold, cut-back asphalt mastic spread at the rate of 35-40 sq. ft. per gallon. Use the notched edge of the trowel. Allow to "flash off" overnight or as directed by the manufacturer. The surface will be solid enough after 12 hours to allow you to snap working lines on it. Use blocks of the flooring as stepping stones to snap lines and begin the installation. 

There are two ways to lay out parquet. The most common is with edges of parquet units (and thus the lines they form) square with the walls of the room. The other way is a diagonal pattern, with lines at a 45° angle to walls.

 

Square pattern. Never use the walls as a starting line because walls are almost never truly straight. Instead, use a chalk line to snap a starting line about 3 ft. or so from the handiest entry door to the room, roughly parallel to the nearest wall. Place this line exactly equal to four or five of the parquet units from the center of the entry doorway. 

Next find the center point of this base line, and snap another line at an exact 90° angle to it from wall to wall. This will become your test line to help keep your pattern straight as the installation proceeds. A quick test for squareness is to measure four feet along one line from where they intersect, and three feet along the other. The distance between these two points will be five feet if the lines are true (Fig. 8). 

Diagonal pattern. Measure equal distances from one corner of a room, along both walls, and snap a chalk line between these two points to form the base line. (This pattern need not be at a precise 45° angle to walls in order to appear perfect.) A test line should again intersect the center of the base line at an exact 90° angle (Fig. 10). 

Special patterns. Most existing parquet patterns can be laid out with these two working lines. Herringbone will require two test lines, however; one will be at the 90° line already described; the other crosses the same intersection of lines, but at a 45° angle to both.

If such elaborate preliminary layout preparation seems a bit overdone, keep in mind that it is wood we are installing. Each piece must be carefully aligned with all of its neighbors. Small variations in size, natural to wood, must be accommodated during installation to keep the overall pattern squared up. You cannot correct a "creeping" pattern after it develops; the more carefully laid out floor causes less problems during field work. 

Wood parquet must always be installed in a pyramid, or stair-step sequence rather than in rows. This again prevents the small inaccuracies of size in all wood from magnifying, or "creeping" to gain an appearance of misalignment. Place the first parquet unit carefully at the intersection of the base and test lines. Lay the next units ahead and to the right of the first one, along the lines. Then continue the stair step sequence, watching carefully the corner alignment of new units with those already in place. Install in a quadrant of the room, leaving trimming at the walls until later. Then return to the base and test lines and lay another quadrant, repeating the stairstep sequence. 

Install the last quadrant from the base line to the door. A reducer strip may be required at the doorway.

Most wood floor mastics will allow the tiles to slip or skid when sideways pressure is applied for some period after the open time* has elapsed. You avoid this sideways pressure by working from "knee boards" or plywood panels laid on top of the installed area of flooring. For the same reason no heavy furniture or activity should be allowed on the finished parquet floor for about 24 hours. Some mastics also require rolling the flooring after installation. 

Cut blocks or parquetry pieces to fit at walls, allowing 3/4" expansion space on all sides. Use cork blocking in 3" lengths between flooring edge and wall to permit the flooring to expand and contract. 

"With blocks, a diagonal pattern is recommended in corridors and in rooms where the length is more than 1 1/2 times the width. This diagonal placement minimizes expansion under high humidity conditions.

HARDWOOD FLOORING GENERAL MAINTENANCE GUIDE

This guide will give you general information on the care of your hardwood floors.  With just few precautions and some basic preventative maintenance you can avoid any costs associated with the repair of your wood floors.

Wood floors, properly finished, are the easiest of all floor surfaces to keep clean and new looking, unlike carpeted or resilient floors that show wear regardless of care. Wood floors can be kept looking like new, year after year, with minimum care. Since the overwhelming majority of wood floors are composed of solid hardwood, this care guide applies specifically to this type of flooring.

What is minimum care? A good rule of thumb is to vacuum and/or dust mop weekly. A damp mop can be used for spills, and when necessary general cleanup on floors which have non-waxed polyurethane or a similar surface finish. When traffic areas of surface finishes begin to show significant wear, screening, scuff sanding the finish surface and re-coating an entire floor is the least involved choice for maintenance. If a floor is waxed, occasional buffing helps renew the shine and remove scuff marks that may appear in the wax coating. If the shine cannot be renewed in heavily used lanes, occasionally re-waxing these areas may be necessary. Intervals for completely re-waxing a floor may extend to a year or longer when attention has been paid to proper care.

Wood and water don't mix. No matter what finish your wood floor has, NOFMA recommends, never pouring water on the floor. While a damp mop may be used on polyurethane and other surface finishes in good condition, excessive amounts of water seep between the boards and into small scratches causing deterioration of finishes. A damp mop should only be damp to the touch. It should be thoroughly wrung and not dripping. Wax-coated finishes should NEVER be cleaned or maintained with water, not even a damp mop. Water can cause a wax finish to be dull or leave water spots.

Read the label. The recommendations made here are not intended to endorse specific products or brands but to serve as general guidelines in the selection and use of floor maintenance materials. Always follow label directions for finishes maintenance products, and corresponding products except for directions which call for using water on wood. And always use only products specifically designed for wood floors and the finish applied to your wood floor.

Preventative Maintenance

Preventative maintenance is a term more common to industrial floor care than to residential or office floor care, but its importance cannot be over-emphasized. Good preventative maintenance lengthens the intervals between the major renovation operations such as re-coating, re-waxing and refinishing. Here are some basic rules that apply to all types of floor finishes.

Keep grit off the floor. Use dirt-trapping, walk-off mats at all exterior doors to help prevent dirt, grit and sand from getting inside the building. Throw- rugs or small sections of carpet just inside the entrances are also recommended. Dirt and grit are any flooring's worst enemy, and that includes carpets and vinyls as well as hardwoods. Keep door mats clean.

In kitchens, use area rugs at high spill locations and at work stations-stove, sink, refrigerator. Cotton is generally the best fabric since it is easily washed. Mats with a smooth backing, i.e. rubber or vinyl, may trap water beneath.

Finishes and certain chemicals in wood oxidize and are affected by ultra violet light sources. This may cause the wood and finish to change color and develop a patina or aged appearance. To avoid uneven appearance, move area rugs occasionally and drape or shade large windows.

Put fabric glides on the legs of your furniture; they allow furniture to be moved easily without scuffing the floor. Clean the glides regularly. Grit can become embedded in glides; clean the glides over to prevent scratching. Some furniture may require barrel type roller casters as ball type casters may cause damage. Grey, non-marking rubber casters are the best. Avoid casters made of hard materials like metals or hard plastics.

Vacuum regularly, as often as you vacuum carpets: a brush attachment works beautifully. Sweep or use a dust mop daily or as needed, but do not use a household dust treatment as this may cause your floor to become slick, dull the finish, or interfere with re-coating.

Wipe up food and other spills promptly with a dry cloth or paper towel. Use a slightly moistened cloth for sticky spills if necessary. Then wipe the floor dry with another cloth or paper towel.

Keep heels on shoes in good repair, especially high heels. Heels that have their protective cap missing or worn away exposing the steel support rod will dent any floor surface, even concrete.

By observing these simple suggestions you'll go a long way toward keeping your hardwood floors beautiful and making their care easier.

LAYING AND FASTENING HARDWOOD FLOORING INFORMATION

The following instructions apply to strip flooring laid on plywood-on-slab, on screeds, and plywood or board subfloors.

(NOTE: Flooring "SHORTS" - 1 1/4' or 2' bundles of flooring strips are "Strip Flooring" and should be installed as such.)

It is NOT recommended to glue Shorts directly to a slab.

With plywood or board subfloors, start by re-nailing any loose areas and sweeping the subfloor clean. Mark location of joists on perimeter walls so that starting runs and finishing runs, which require face nailing, can be nailed into joists. Then cover subfloor with a good grade of 15 lb. asphalt felt/building paper, lapped 2"-4" along the edge seams. This helps keep out dust, retards moisture movement from below, and helps prevent squeaks in dry seasons.

Direction of finish flooring. Direction of finish flooring should be at right angles to the joists as shown in Fig. 4. This is generally the longest dimension of the room or building and gives best appearance.

Begin flooring installation along the longest continuous wall parallel to the flooring direction of most rooms. (i.e. Down a long hallway wall.) Work from there into the room. Use a slip-tongue to reverse direction and complete the rooms. Glue and blind nail the slip tongue. At any change of direction, always provide tongue and groove engagement either with a slip tongue, or factory edge or end.

Starting to lay the floor. Location and straight alignment of the first course is important. Place a mark 3/4" plus the width of flooring (3" for 2 1/4" flooring) on the end wall near a corner of starting wall. (Figure 5.) Place similar mark at opposite corner and insert nails into each mark. Pull string line between nails. Nail the first strip with its leading edge on this line.

The gap between that strip and the wall is needed for expansion space and will be hidden by the shoe mold (Fig. 1).

If you're working with screeds on slab make the same measurements and stretch a line between nails. Remove line after you get the starter board in place.

Lay the first strip along the starting string line, tongue out, and drive 6d or 8d flooring nails or casing nails (galvanized or screw shank hold best) 1" from the grooved edge. Nails should be driven into the top surface of strips and counter sunk (face nailing). Position nails over supporting joists, and near ends of strips or into each screed crossed. Keep the starter strip aligned with the string line. (Pre-drilling nail holes will prevent splits.) Also, blind nail starting strip through the tongue according to nailing schedule.

Rack the floor. Lay out seven or eight rows of flooring end to end in a staggered pattern with end joints at least 6" apart. Find or cut pieces to fit within 1/2" of the end wall. Watch your pattern for even distribution of long and short pieces and to avoid clusters of short boards (Fig. 6).

Nailing the floor. With plywood on slab construction the face nails should be cut to slightly less than 1 1/2". After the starter run fit each run of successive strips snug, groove-to-tongue. Blind nail through the tongue along the length of the strip according to the schedule shown in the nailing schedule table. Countersink all nails. After the second or third run is in place you can change from a hammer to a floor nailing machine which drives nails mechanically or pneumatically, and does not require additional countersinking. Various floor nailing machines use either a barbed cleat or staples, fed into the machine in clips. The nailing machine drives fasteners through the tongue of the flooring at the proper angle.

When using the floor nailing machine to fasten 3/4" thick strip or plank flooring to plywood laid on a slab, be sure to use a 1 1/2" cleat, not the usual 2" cleat which may come out the back of the plywood and prevent nails from countersinking properly and tearing the vapor retarder. In all other applications the 2" cleat is preferred.

Continue installing across the room, ending up on the far wall with the same 3/4" expansion space as on the beginning wall. It may be necessary to rip a strip to fit. Avoid nailing into a subfloor joint. Position flooring strips so that they do not meet over subfloor joints. Blind nail by hand where the nailing machine can not be used. Face nail the last runs when unable to blind nail by hand. With 2 1/4" strip face-nailing is required the last 2 or 3 runs and in a ripped piece of a strip if one has been used. Use an offset pry bar or lever device to tighten these last face nailed runs all at once before face-nailing.

Nailing to screeds. When nailing direct to screeds (no solid subfloor), nail at all screed intersections and to both screeds where a strip passes over a lapped screed joint. Since flooring ends are tongue and grooved, all end joints do not need to meet over screeds but end joints of adjacent rows should not break over the same void between screeds.

Some boards may not be straight. A large screwdriver, sharpened pry bar, or wedges can force such boards into position or pull two or three runs together.

Shoe molding. Nail this to the baseboard, not the flooring, after the entire floor is in place.

Ribs for Referrals

This is the best tasting promotion you'll ever come across! Throughout the Holiday Season we're offering an opportunity for you to enjoy $100.00 of Kansas City's world famous Jack Stack BBQ!

3 Easy Steps to Enjoy a Holiday Feast On Us!

1) Refer a friend or family member to 360Flooring.com for the purchase of $1000.00 or more in Tile or Hardwood Flooring

2) Contact our sales team to redeem your $100.00 gift card to Jack Stack BBQ

3) Go to the Jack Stack BBQ website to order the BBQ feast of your choice just in time for the Holidays!

Click here to learn more about Jack Stack BBQ >>

Ribs for Referrals FAQ's:

How is your food delivered?
The food is packaged in a "Custom-made Jack Stack Styrofoam cooler" which goes inside of an attractive Jack Stack outer box. Dry ice is included in the package to assure the food arrives frozen and in perfect condition. The standard delivery method is FedEx Ground, which delivers within three days to most parts of the contiguous U.S. Out of necessity, Alaska and Hawaii require 1-Day or 2-Day Express Shipping method. (Please add one day of travel time, i.e. 1-Day will arrive in two days, and 2-Day will arrive in three days.)

What time of day is the food delivered?
Federal Express typically will deliver packages to residences toward the end of the work day between 3:00 P.M. and 7:00 P.M., and to businesses no later than 3:30 P.M. Packages will be left at the recipients location if nobody is there to receive it. This delivery method ensures that the package will be cared for as soon as possible. Overnight Express, 2-Day Express, Saturday Express Delivery, and Priority Overnight Express deliveries are all options at an additional cost. For detailed answers regarding how and when we ship our barbecue orders, visit our Shipping Informationpage.

How do I prepare the BBQ?
Jack Stack includes an Owner's Manual with detailed instructionson how to reheat each product in each package. Directions are given for the Microwave, Grill & Conventional Oven. We recommended the Conventional Oven as the best method. Click here for the Heating Instructions.

Do you have any Restaurants outside Kansas City?
As of right now, all of our restaurants are located in the Greater Kansas City area. Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue currently has four Restaurant locations. Our original location is in South Kansas City, referred to as Martin City, at 135th Street & Holmes Road. A second Restaurant is located in Overland Park, Kansas, in the heart of Johnson County, at 95th Street & Metcalf Avenue. Our third restaurant lies in downtown Kansas City, Missouri, at 22nd & Wyandotte, in the historic Freight House, just North of Union Station. Our newest location is on The Country Club Plaza at 4747 Wyandotte on the southeast corner of the Plaza. Click here for more information and directions to each of our restaurants. We also have specific addresses if you're needing to map to one of our restaurants. Coming from: KC International Airport: 601 Brasilia Ave. Kansas City, Missouri 64153; Charles B Wheeler Downtown Airport: 300 Richards Road, Kansas City MO 64116. If you're driving to Kansas City, map to us beginning at your starting destination. The closest restaurant to I-70 is our Freight House restaurant in downtown Kansas City. If traveling from south of Kansas City, you may want to visit either our Martin City location, or our Overland Park, Kansas location. This would also include business travelers with Sprint, Black and Veatch, Corporate Woods, etc. in areas south of Kansas City.

For other Jack Stack BBQ FAQ's click here >>

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Give me a call if you would like to participate in this awesome promotion! Jack Stack's chicken wings, burnt ends and ribs are the BEST I have ever had...

Thanks,

Ryan LeCluyse
360Flooring.com
1-866-592-8169 ext. 2
ryanL@360flooring.com
http://www.360flooring.com/

More American Hardwood Now Than 50 Years Ago

American Hardwoods: Renewing, Abundant and Sustainable
American hardwoods have entered their fourth century of providing beauty and authenticity, warmth and integrity, lasting aesthetic and functional value to interiors. For floors, furniture, mouldings, millwork, cabinetry and built-ins, they are quintessentially green materials in abundant and self-renewing supply.American hardwoods are sustainable solutions for eco-effective design and building:

• Harvesting levels are far below the levels of growth: Nearly twice as much hardwood grows each year as is harvested in the U.S. For this reason, the volume of hardwoods in American forests today is 90 percent larger than it was 50 years ago.
• Hardwood foresters follow professional best practices that mirror natural forces. Individual trees are selected for harvest, encouraging forests to renew and regenerate themselves naturally and prolifically.
• In addition to providing wildlife habitat and filtering the water supply, trees produce oxygen, remove carbon dioxide and store carbon, reducing greenhouse gases in the atmosphere.
• Virtually every part of the log is used as lumber or by-products, and finished products are re-useable, recyclable and biodegradable.

All hardwood forests in the continental United States are temperate–not tropical. They are home to the oaks, maples, cherry, ash, poplar and scores of other broad-leafed deciduous species, many of which grow nowhere else in the world. The term "hardwood" has no reference to the wood's actual hardness, which differs by species.

Unlike the area blanketed by the evergreen conifers (softwoods), most hardwood forestland is in the eastern half of the country. Hardwood forests cover 279 million acres: the equivalent of hardwood trees covering every square inch of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia. This resource is neither scarce nor finite.

Collectively, across all hardwood trees in all American hardwood forests, there is nearly twice as much new wood growth as there is wood removed through harvesting. We are not running out of trees. The volume of hardwood in American forests is 352 billion cubic feet, and they are adding growth of 10.2 billion cubic feet a year. This compares to annual removal of 6 billion cubic feet.












"Sustainability" is meeting today's needs, without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs. With hardwood growth well exceeding removal, the U.S. supply of hardwoods for flooring, furniture, cabinetry and millwork is–by definition–sustainable now and for future generations.

Just as important, hardwoods are green design choices with the intrinsic beauty and versatility so lacking in recycled cartons, glued-up grass stalks and compressed grain husks.

- Source: http://www.americanhardwoods.org/

To DIY or not to DIY - That is the question...

Should you save money by doing the job yourself? Do-it-yourself (DIY) jobs are a popular trend in the home improvement industry; however, before you grab a hammer and start swinging, you should know that this is a trend with a few problems. Before you decide to do-it-yourself, I recommend taking this DIY quiz below.

Answer Yes or No to the following questions:

• Do you enjoy physical work?


• Are you persistent and patient?


• Do you have reliable work habits - meaning that once the project is started, will it get finished?


• Do you have all the tools needed and, more importantly, the skills required to do the job?


• What quality level do you need for this project? Are your skills at that level?


• Do you have the time that will be required to complete the project? (Always double or triple the time estimated for a DIY project, unless you are highly skilled and familiar with that particular project.)


• Will it matter if the project remains unfinished for a period of time?


• Are you prepared to handle the kind of stress this project will create in your family relationships?


• Do you know all of the steps involved in the project?


• Have you gotten the installation instructions from the manufacturer to determine whether this is a project you still want to undertake? (Most manufacturers will send you installation instructions before purchase to determine whether the product will meet your needs.)


• Is this a job you can do completely by yourself or will you need assistance? If you do need assistance, what skill level is involved for your assistant? If you need a professional subcontractor, do you have access to a skilled labor pool?


• Are you familiar with your local building codes and permit requirements? (Some jurisdictions require that the work be completed by a licensed professional in order to meet code. It is best to check these requirements before beginning work on the project.)


• What will you do if the project goes awry? (Most contractors are wary about taking on a botched DIY job, and many just won't take them.)


• Is it safe for you to do this project? (If you are not familiar with roofing or do not have fall protection restraints, you may not want to venture into a roofing job. Similarly, if you know nothing about electricity - leave it to the professional. Some jobs can be fatal if not performed correctly. Your health and safety should be the primary concern. Never enter into a DIY project that would jeopardize those.)


• Will you be able to obtain the materials you need? Who will be your source of supply? Will they deliver? - You can count on us!


• Are you attempting to do-it-yourself for financial reasons? If so, have you looked at all of your costs, including the cost of materials, your time, and the tools you need to purchase? If you are new to the DIY game, you may also want to look at the cost to correct any mistakes you may make - i.e., the damage factor. Will it still be a cost-saving venture?


• If you are trying DIY for the satisfaction of a job well done - can you ensure that the job will be "well done"? If it doesn't come out right, how will you feel? Will you be able to afford to redo any unsatisfactory work?
  

If you answered "Yes" to more than half of these questions, you might attempt a DIY project. But before you run for the nearest hardware store, revisit those questions you marked "No" and carefully consider the potential problems you will face in those areas if you proceed with the project. Hiring a professional might still be your best choice.

This quiz is not meant to scare you away from DIY projects - they can be extremely rewarding and fun if you are prepared and have the proper skills. However, you need to be aware that home improvement can be hazardous to your wallet and, more importantly, to your health.

How to Choose Flooring For Your Home

When building a new home or remodeling your existing home, the flooring choice(s) you decide on are very important. There are many factors to consider when deciding on which type of flooring is right for each space in your home. Comfort, visibility, durability, price and maintenance to name a few. I'm going to outline 3 different topics to consider when you approach your upcoming flooring project(s). Keep in mind that before all other prerequisites for your flooring project must come the desire to fulfill your own unique design interests with the flooring in your home.

1. Figure out how much time, money and energy you'd like to devote to the flooring for each space in your home. If you're not the experienced installer that has the tools and know-how I strongly suggest getting a hold of someone who not only has the experience, but also has the expertise to help make your floor stand out from the next. There are plenty of subcontractors out there that are more than willing to take your job, but working with a company that may cost an extra buck or two here and there is well worth it for the satisfaction you'll enjoy after the project is complete and then again 10 years down the road when you're due for a 'fix' or two. The going rate for good labor on hardwood flooring installation is between $3 to $5 per square foot. Don't forget that your material cost is on top of that figure. For quality tile installation labor you'll be between $4-$12 per square foot depending on the application. Again, don't forget that your material cost is on top of that figure. The other cost to consider is the maintenance required to keep your floor looking as pristine as the day it was installed. Hardwoods are simple but there is regular maintenance required. Carpet is warm and cozy, but you'll need a good vacuum and have to except the fact that you will get stains somewhere along the line. Tile is pretty much bullet proof, so long as the proper sealants are used during the installation and every 2-3 years. Just a note of caution for everyone trying to stay 'on budget' - make sure that you don't go with the cheapest thing out there for your flooring project(s). I've seen it over and over from clients that have gone with cheaper laminates or junk products from overseas only to end up calling me a few months down the road to order something worthwhile and replace the 'cheap' product they found from who knows where. Work with an experienced team like ours and you will be taken care of both before the project starts and years after the project is completed with quality products and the experience to support you.
   


2. Consider the traffic patterns for each space. Understand who is really going to be using each area of your home and try to visualize how your want the flooring to feel in that space. The trend these days is to use as many hard surface products as possible throughout the house and put larger area rugs where required...maybe we should start selling area rugs? Carpet may stay looking nice in low traffic areas like bedrooms and home offices for a number of years, but hardwood and tile are going to stand the test of time far better for kitchens, bathrooms, entries and hallways. Recognize how each space will look together with your design as a whole. I tend to suggest staying with 1 type of flooring on smaller open floor plans to help enhance the square footage of each room by carrying the same flooring into the next. This really helps create a nice flow and eliminates the choppy feel that ends up looking very 'spec'. Larger floor plans and smaller segmented floor plans give you more leniency to use different flooring materials from one room to the next because walls and doors don't allow your flooring to flow as seamlessly.
   


3. Get a clear understanding for who will be using the flooring in each space. If you have kids or pets, then you know as well as I do that something durable is always going to be the best option. Hardwoods and tiles are not only going to be more durable than soft surface (carpets, etc.) flooring options, but they can really add style to a space with the unique sizes, colors and textures that are available today. Cleaning up a spilled drink off of hardwood and tile is always going to be easier in comparison to what it takes to get a spill cleaned up off carpet. Adults and teenagers typically require less durability and more comfort/beauty from flooring, which allows you to really mix it up with higher end carpets, more unique hardwoods, natural stone tiles along with a compliment of nice area rugs. For both the aesthetics and durability solid surface flooring options are always going to add value to your home for years to come.

Hopefully that gives you a few things to chew on as your flooring project becomes one step closer to reality. As always if you have any questions or want to utilize our Free Design Assistance give me a call or shoot me an email and I'll be happy to help.

Ryan LeCluyse

360Flooring.com

1-866-592-8169 ext. 2

ryanL@360flooring.com

http://www.360flooring.com/

Carver bath tubs

Here at 360Flooring.com we are the proud manufacturer and distributor of Carver whirlpool & air massage bath tubs. We have been manufacturing our Carver bath tubs for over 20 years now and continue to see growth in both demand for our products from new customers and repeat business from 20 year old clients. With 26 models in our line now we have just about covered every possible size/dimension that's popular in today's homes.

My wife and I recently built a new home and we installed the Carver AT7236 - The Gladiator whirlpool tub in our master bath & the Carver AR6036 - The Pro Am I soaking tub in our second bath. Honestly, I have been selling these tubs for 3+ years now and had only had never had the chance to enjoy one at my leisure once until we got into our home. Now that we have access to a nice whirlpool bath we have been able to enjoy it on a number of occasions. It's large enough for the two of us to relax at the same time and there is nothing better if you're feeling a little under the weather or just got done with 3 hours of beach volleyball. After a good whirlpool I always feel so relaxed and loose...

Since the launch of our new website we've decided to offer FREE SHIPPING on all of our Carver bath tubs, regardless of the number you order. A number of repeat customers have flooded us with orders and we seem to attract new clients from all over the country on a daily basis. I recently had a customer in CA purchase 3700 sqft of Unfinished 4 3/4" Verona Maple and 2 Carver tubs for their new home. The total shipping cost for their order was only $1350 delivered right to their residence. That's just $0.36/sqft for the 3700 sqft of wood and the tubs shipped for free! They saved over $380 in shipping charges by taking advantage of our FREE SHIPPING offer on our Carver bath tubs and as always there's NO SALES TAX outside of KS & MO.

I love it when we can work deals like that for a customer...everyday!

Take a look at our Carver bath tub line sometime and make sure you pass our website on to your builder and designer so they can work with us in the future and learn how to save even more through our different pricing levels for volume purchases.

Ryan LeCluyse
360Flooring.com
1-866-592-8169 ext. 2
ryanL@360flooring.com
http://www.360flooring.com/

Future Product Line(s)

We are currently in the process of adding a number of different products to our line. A large portion of our focus for these additions is to offer more ‘green’ - environmentally friendly products. We have been a part of the green movement for some time through the FSC certified hardwood flooring mills that we partner with and a continual focus on efficient logistics for our all of your orders.

We have created a Future Product Line(s) Poll on the right hand section of this blog that we’re going to run for the next couple of months in regards to what products interest you the most. If there are other products that are available that you’d like us to provide, submit a comment or give me a call directly and I will be happy to track down what your project demands.

Thanks,
Ryan LeCluyse
1-866-592-8169 ext. 2
ryanL@360flooring.com
www.360flooring.com